Sluglife: January 2009 Archives

OMG We're In New Orleans!!! Day 1: getting there.

For this year's Alzheimer's Walk Manager's conference they're doing a national get-together in New Orleans. So I tagged along! I'm writing this from our hotel room. It's our first day and we've been up since 4am (PST) and are exhausted. Tomorrow Anna has to work, but I'll be exploring the city. Here's our first day of traveling and eating.
	It's hard to look excited when you're boarding a plane at 5am, so cut me a little slack. On the inside, however, I was... okay, tired. And still in a bit of shock that we're actually GOING. We actually drove down Wednesday evening and stayed at Misha's and Jeanny's in San Carlos. Misha generously drove us to the airport at an ungodly hour. THANK YOU.
	Here we are on the tarmac in SFO, waiting push-back for our adventure to really begin
	And then we were off, climbing above the fog blanketing SFO. Next stop, DENVER!
	Yup, we're in Denver. Grabbing a snack and biding our time during our two and a half hour stop over.
	We're off again. Next stop, New Orleans!!
	In no time we were flying next to the Mississippi on approach to Louis Armstrong International Airport. Yes, we're really here!
	It's a little dark, but here's the view from our room.
	A little better view of the big buildings outside our window -- we're on the 12th floor just outside the French Quarter.
	So it's dinner time, and your options are room service, the restaurant in the hotel or a New Orleans landmark, Mother's, which is conveniently located right across the street. You decide. Well, here's what we decided: Anna had their famous roast beef po'boy, in the background we split a cup of red beans and rice, and...
	I had the "debris" po'boy. These were awesome. Seriously, with the choices listed above, and in accordance to our "No Meal Left Behind (In The Big Easy)" we really had no other option.
	Standing outside the door at Mother's this is looking up at our hotel. If you follow up the right edge of the hotel, about half-way up the picture there's a really bright window on the corner. That's us.
	As I mentioned above, we're just outside the French Quarter. After dinner we walked around the block just barely skirting the Quarter. This is (obviously) not the Quarter, but it's still a cute street that leads back to our hotel. Tomorrow Anna's got work all day. I, however, will be out and about town. You can bet I'll make sure I photograph everything! More soon!

Posted by Jordy on January 8, 2009 7:47 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

OMG We're In New Orleans!!! Day 2: Jordy and the French Quarter.

Friday presented itself as a study in contrasts -- Anna was stuck inside the hotel at various conferences and break-out sessions, where all she wanted to do was, well, break-out, way out. Meanwhile, I was determined to see, do, and eat as much as I could do in the French Quarter in one day. How'd I do? Let's see.
	While Anna was stuck with stale pastries at their continental breakfast, I made my way into the French Quarter to Johnny's Po'Boys for breakfast (we're planning on going back today for their namesake).
	I asked the lady at the counter what she recommended, and this is it. The eggs are eggs, same with the bacon. The biscuit was a spectacular representation of the breed. And those represent the first grits I've ever had. I like.
	I had some time before my cemetery tour started, so I wandered the quarter. This is Jackson Square with St. Louis Cathedral in the background.
	Even though Mardi Gras isn't for another month, Mardi Gras season officially got underway on January 6th. I stumbled on one of the floats being prepared early.
	First, I've learned that North, South, East, and West really don't apply here. North is Lake (Pontchartrain) side, South is River-side, East is up-river, and West is down-river. So this is Bourbon Street and Toulouse looking up-river at around 9:30. The Quarter is funny this early. It reminded me of the Las Vegas strip in the morning -- there's a sense that you're seeing the rigging and cables of the thing that you're not supposed to see. Twelve hours later when the place is humming, that's what you're supposed to see. Nonetheless, I loved it.
	And this is the same corner looking up-river.
	At 10 I had lined up a cemetery tour through Haunted History Tours which was fantastic and I can't recommend enough. The tour started at "Reverend Zombie's Voodoo Shop" which, as it happens, is right across the street from the pictured and legendary Preservation Hall.
	After I got over my awe of being in front of a Jazz landmark, Ernie, our tour guide got things started. He was incredibly informative, funny, just great. Did I mention I'd recommend the tour? Oh, right I did. So what did I learn?
	After some background history about the original location of the first New Orleans cemetery, we went to where they moved the cemetery to, St. Louis Cemetery Number One. This is SO very much worth going to. Here I am in front of the reputed tomb of Marie Laveau, the "Voodoo Queen". What's with all the "X"s? Voodoo. Apparently it's considered good luck to leave three x's on the tomb. However since it's against the law and desecration, I'd just as soon settle for a picture. Besides, there's a good chance she's not even in there but in any number of locations.
	Okay, check this: this is on a larger, but not terribly large tomb. And this is the second plaque on the tomb -- the most recent is on another face. This one starts in 1738 with the first entry and fills up with 1898; The more recent plaque's most name died in the mid-eighties. How do you get that many people in the tomb when, keep in mind, this is Catholic cemetary and they do not allow cremation?
	The term is "inlimited interment". The body is interred for the year and a day mourning period. During that period, well, Ernie put it best, "The temerature in these tombs can get up to 120 degrees. Go home, put a turkey in the oven at 120 degrees and leave it for a year and a day, then see what's left." What is left fits in a bag and is re-interred and the tomb is resealed. One of the reasons some families have two- or three-tiered tombs is because during that year and day, should another member of the family die you've got another spot. Yeah, it's a bit morbid to think about it maybe, but it's really a brilliant use of land.
	What if your family can't afford a tomb? Here's one alternative -- this wall now serves as one border of the cemetery, but once was in the middle of the place. It's about 8 feet thick. These are referred to as "oven" vaults because, well they look like them and they also serve that purpose. Oh, did I mention the city of New Orleans is slowly sinking? The oven vaults were originally three-high.
	Her's another option -- and a poor use of land: the step-tomb. Pretty straight forward -- if you dig more than about three feed down you're going to hit the water table of this below-sea level town. So you lay bricks, place the casket, and then lay bricks around and over it. One body per. Yeah, that's not unlike many cemeteries the country over, but after all the other tombs this just seems silly.
	Did I mention the city's sinking? As Ernie said, "If you're in one of our cemeteries and you're standing on bricks, you're standing on a sunken step-tomb".
	Seen "Easy Rider"? This might look familier. That was the last non-documentary to be filmed in the cemetery. Thanks, Peter Fonda!
	These sky-scrapers aren't family tombs, but rather "Society tombs" -- kind of like a union. This is the French Society tomb. Now that's a benefits plan!
	Ah, another thing I learned on the tour that had nothing to do with cemeteries -- the difference between a gallery and a balcony. This, with its supports and it stretching all the way over the sidewalk, this is a gallery.
	Supported only by the building? Only halfway across the sidewalk? Balcony. Now you, too, know.
	The tour ended at around 1pm, and I wasn't really hungry. Thirsty, tired? Yes. So I grabbed a Diet Coke and sat on the bank of the Mississippi river and just chilled for a little while.
	A path runs along the edge of the river for some time. As our hotel is three blocks from the river, I followed this path back to touch bases with Anna (between sessions) and chill for a few minutes before heading back out again.
	About 3pm I left the hotel on a mission. I'd read about a fantastic place for a fried shrimp po'boy -- Rampart Grocery. It's on the far edge of the Quarter and not in the best area. But I was on a mission. So I headed out across the Quarter in search of the po'boy. On the way I stopped and picked up a cigar from the Cigar Factory New Orleans which are rolled on the premises. Finally I made it to the Rampart Grocery which is, well, a small grocery store run by an Asian family. I waited in line behind some high school basketball players who ordered fried chicken and burgers. As per my mission orders, I ordered the shimp po'boy on French bread and grabbed a diet coke. As there's no seating there at all, I headed for the best place I could think of to enjoy it -- yup, the river walk. Unlike when I was there earlier, there was a free bench.
	Here it is. The woman asked how I wanted it dressed? "Everything" I said. "Hot sauce?" Yes, ma'am. In this fantastic city there are incredible places to eat -- Brennan's, Commander's Palace among them -- we're not eating at those places. But I dare you to find a meal so comprehensively enjoyable as my po'boy on a bench on a gorgeous afternoon in front of the lazy Mississippi river.
	After I finished off the po'boy, what better to than to have that cigar and watch the ships go by? As far as cigars go, the wrapper burn was crap, and the draw was very tight -- probably owing something to the way the cashier more scalped than clipped it -- but the filler had that great deep chocholate taste that comes with a nice maduro, and the roll was great... and the scenery! Despite attempts to objectively judge a cigar, I always fall back on the subjectives -- even a lousy cigar under great circumstances can be great; I would argue the same cannot be said of a great cigar in lousy circumstances, but that's just me. Good cigar, great circumstances -- definately in my top 10.
	And as I finished, the moon was just coming up up-river. Perfect!
	On my way back, I had to take a picture of the clouds behind the Jackson Brewery -- which is all shop now. Still a nice building! Back to the hotel where I met up with Anna. They were to head out to dinner soon, but not in an ordinary fashion, mind you...
	No, they would have a New Orleans jazz band. It was fantastic, except that's not all...
	Because after playing a few numbers they would take up the rear of the processional. Leading us? How about the Edna Karr high school marching band leading the whole Alzheimer's group on a parade? Sure, it was a parade basically around the block, but if you ever find yourself in a parade behind a marching band with the power of the brass and the impact of the percussion report, I don't care if you're marching through an old folks home, that is an experience to remember! And it surely was an awesome way to walk to dinner!
	Even though I'd had dinner, I couldn't pass up the opportunity to walk with Anna in the parade. It was a parade after all! And it was very cool!
	I bugged out as the marching band split and the Alz folks shuffled into the Hilton, Jazz band still taking up the back. Talk about a way to make an entrance! I walked back to Bourbon street, which doesn't really start to hum until after dark. I went back to the voodoo shop, I even got take our at Cafe Du Monde! I took my cafe au lait and bag of beignets over to a bench bordering Jackson Square where I ate them like a diabetic hobo on a sugar bender. nom nom nom nom. Tonight I go back with Anna! And we'll take pictures!!

Posted by Jordy on January 10, 2009 3:10 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

OMG We Went To New Orleans!!! Days 3 and 4: Anna and Jordy Out and About

These pictures are late in going up, I know. It’s crazy to think how much has happened between touching down back in San Francisco on January 11th and now – things like Anna losing a gallbladder, and the country getting a new president…. It’s been a hell of a January. So enjoy our last batch of pictures, late though they are!
	Saturday dawned with Anna going to her final half-day of the conference; for the morning, I would again be on my own. I had the perfect place picked out for breakfast, too – this little hole-in-the-wall place on Bourbon. Unfortunately, everyone else in New Orleans found it before I did. Not wanting to wait for a table to open (or a seat at the bar for that matter), I walked around the Quarter until I found someplace that appealed – The Market Café seemed quite inviting. I settled on their “Eggs Creole” – two pocket eggs with New Orleans shrimp Creole sauce and a biscuit. It was exactly what I wanted for breakfast. Serendipity.
	Anna was done a little after 2, and so we headed out to find something. Truth be told, we knew exactly where we were headed – back to Johnny’s PoBoys.
	And we knew exactly where we wanted to eat them – down by the Mississippi river. Sound familiar?
	Look! A River Slug! Free from the conference, Anna was now ready to nom!
	And nom we did. I don’t honestly remember if this was Anna’s (fried shrimp) or mine (fried catfish), and I apologize for the poor picture. Whoever’s it was, it wasn’t long for this world.
	We ate our Po Boys and watched the big ships running up river towards wherever. Can’t beat the view.
	After that, it was my turn to give Anna the abbreviated tour of the Quarter. We started in Jackson Square, with St. Louis cathedral in the background. It was a stunning day, by the way – warm (high 70s) with 80% humidity. Perfect day to stroll around.
	On our way back to the hotel, we stopped off at the New Orleans Cigar Factory – the site of my cigar acquisition the night before – where I procured a few souvenirs, which are patiently waiting in my humidor. After the day, we weren’t hungry until almost 10, so I ran across the street and got a PoBoy from Mother’s which we split in the hotel room. A lovely end to the day.
	Remember how I mentioned the day before was gorgeous and hot? Sunday dawned with steely skies and an icy wind. The temperature hovered in the high 40s with a biting wind. So when you look at the crowd at Café Du Monde, you understand why they’re bundled up. Really, though, I can’t think of a better place to duck in from the cold then Café Du Monde. And unlike my Friday night back-alley beignet binge, we did this one proper.
	Proper stack of beignets. Proper coffee and chicory café au lait in a proper receptacle… And my wonderful wife along for the experience. Forget the weather, this was right.
	After check-out, we decided to give ourselves a driving tour of the Garden District. The houses were amazing, but the streets were terrifyingly narrow – not unlike the French Quarter. We finally pulled over. This is the “Corn Fence,” a wrought-iron fence with, well, corn in it. Quite cool, and the only other one like it is in the French Quarter.
	Sunday in New Orleans is not a good day to do just about anything, as everything is closed. Including this cemetery – Lafayette Cemetery Number One – as well as just about everyplace we wanted to eat. We managed to get into the cemetery because they were doing some sort of beautification. Don’t mind us, we’re appreciating your beautification!
	The Garden District was the American’s answer to the French Quarter, and Lafayette Cemetery Number One was the counterpart to the French St. Louis Cemetery Number One – where my tour took place on Friday. You can see this tomb’s first resident took occupancy in 1861.
	One of the fascinating things is that these tombs are still in rotation – you can still buy a plot in one of these cemeteries. Obviously, as you can see here, the previous tenants are relocated prior to you taking ownership, but you get an idea of the inside. This is a two slot model – so that if during the year-and-a-day period where your family member is, well, baking, should someone else in the family die, they’ve got another slot for them.
	Just outside and across the street is the renowned Commander’s Palace – where both Paul Prudhomme and Emeril Lagasse both made their marks. Naturally it wasn’t exactly, shall we say, in our trip budget. Next time, right?
	On the way out of town, we passed what we’d not seen all trip – Home Depot. No, just kidding. The Superdome. We passed it on the way in, and seeing it at the beginning and end of our trip served as apt bookends. None of the areas we stayed were affected by Katrina, but here is one of the most visible symbols of the days that followed the hurricane itself. By looking at our pictures, you’d never know the city outside the narrow areas we visited were devastated, but they were, and many areas still haven’t come back. We deliberately didn’t go to those areas, but the Superdome stood as a reminder that they were still there, and still struggling to come back.
	This, most certainly, isn’t New Orleans. Our flight out had a stopover in Chicago and the same storm which halved the temperatures in New Orleans on our final day in town shut down Chicago’s O’Hare airport the day before. Still grappling with the crush that accompanies mass-canceled flights, we were glad to be flying into Midway instead. But as you can see, there was still plenty of snow on the ground. Following a thorough de-icing, we were in the air and headed for home. A fantastic trip, an uneventful flight home…. Who could ask for more?! The only remaining question is “When do we go back?” because it’s a “When” and not an “If” – we’re smitten by New Orleans.

Posted by Jordy on January 31, 2009 3:44 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

NINETY-SEVEN!

Last week I drove down to celebrate my grandmother's 97th birthday. NINETY-SEVEN. These are a couple of pictures my Mom took.
	Here's the fam at dinner. It's always wonderful to get together with my family.
	The birthday girl! Ninety-Seven. 97!!
	Okay, so here's the deal: Jack had just gotten a new iphone and he left it on the table while he went to watch the NHL Allstar game in the other room. Nefariously, I figured I'd do an embarrassing lookup in Youtube so when he goes to show his friends, "Hey look, I can watch videos on this -- check it out!" and he hits the Youtube button it'd show his last lookup -- say something like, I don't know, "gay porn"? For the record, it was Jill, my sister, who suggested taking a screenshot and setting it as his wallpaper. Great idea!
	You know, it's funny -- Jack didn't think it was nearly as funny. I told him I'd change it to something like, say, his 97 year old grandmother, but he left without having me change the wallpaper. As far as I know, he's still got that beefcake wallpaper. Must be a hit at the office.

Posted by Jordy on January 31, 2009 7:00 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

A Wonderful Mid-Winter Day

I said in a different post, it’s been a hell of a January. To many big things to mention, and half of them made the month feel like a year long. Today we closed out January with a fantastic day in West Sonoma County. We’ve made a resolution to try to go to a new place we haven’t been before once a week. Between New Orleans and Anna’s gallbladder, we haven’t had much of a chance to keep up with that resolution. Today, however, we got in three new places.
	First stop, the Grove of the Old Trees. Haven’t heard of it? Neither had we until we spotted it in a recent newspaper article. Despite the recent press, on this gorgeous Saturday the place was deserted – and it’s pretty obvious why. It’s in the middle of nowhere, which is part of the reason it’s such an amazingly peaceful place.
	Once inside the park, the grandeur of the place takes over. Having grown up visiting redwood forests my whole life, this place surprisingly was able to take my breath away.
	Proof we were there.
	Just off one of the trails we came across a burned-out tree. Redwood bark is remarkably fireproof, however any chink in the bark allows the fire inside to smolder, which is exactly what happened here. However, despite the fire damage this giant still looks to be in great shape. That’s me, for a little scale.
	The moss inside the burn made for a pretty shot.
	Speaking of pretty shots, who’s that cutie in the tree?
	Looking at the pictures again, one thing difficult to convey is the incredible peacefulness of the place. Among these massive trees, all you hear is the wind and birds. Quite a fantastic place to let go of the month.

	As you can see by the little compass thingie in the upper left, this isn’t our photo – no, because I left the camera in the car I resorted to ganking a rather good shot from Google Street View. Not bad! This is Village Bakery in Sebastopol where we stopped in to share a grilled turkey and pepper jack sandwich for lunch. Wonderful. We will be going back (with the camera, I promise).
	Our final stop for the day took us down to Cotati to a local cupcakery called Sift. Anna had been craving a cupcake all week, and I’d heard of the place, so… It’s the cutest little place. If you have a sweet tooth and you find yourself on 101 near the Cotati grade, make the stop. It’s worth it.
	Same picture as above, just cropped differently to show the unfortunate coincidence of sitting behind the logo in the window.
	Our two tastes of Sift were, on the left, Peanut Butter Ripple (chocolate cake with peanut butter frosting) and an Irish Car Bomb (Guinness chocolate cake with Irish cream frosting) on the right. Divine! We will be visiting again!